If you want to set rivet nuts quickly and easily then this tool is for you! It’s an Astro Pneumatic combination tool kit (part number APT-1453). On the other hand, specialty tools (like the one shown in the pics) are perfectly happy setting all sorts of rivet nuts.
#Metal nutserts plus#
While the end result is usually A-OK, this setup consumes a lot of working space, plus you need a separate tool to set each (different) thread size of rivet nut. I have an older example for installing 5/16 inch rivet nuts, and to give you an idea of the bulk, the tool requires the use of a large 1/2 inch Allen wrench along with an equally beefy 1-1/16 inch wrench. Some of them are dedicated to one size of rivet nut.
#Metal nutserts install#
In order to install steel rivet nuts, then you’ll need a beefy, capable tool. This effectively draws it into the back side of the hole, creating a secure, load bearing thread. The rivet nut is inserted into the hole and then the tool is used to expand the hidden side of the rivet nut. You select the rivet nut for the thread (size and pitch) and then drill the hole to accept the rivet nut. There are several different types of threaded insert rivet gun tools out there-some are dedicated to a specific thread size, while others are comprehensive kits that can perform installations on all sorts of different rivet nut threads. So how do you deform it? It can be accomplished with a bolt and nut arrangement…but it’s far easier and cleaner to use a proper tool. When you examine a common rivet nut, you’ll see that it’s a rather robust piece, even though it is engineered to deform. Spend a few pennies more per rivet nut and you’ll be happy! (Image/Wayne Scraba) I had a couple of cheap “off brand” rivet nuts in my stash that refused to deform properly, no matter what tooling I used. Word of caution here: Not all rivet nuts are created equal. Depending upon the format, rivet nuts are available cad plated, zinc plated, or natural (plated steel being the most common). The purpose of ribbed flanges and ribbed bodies is to provide additional gripping strength for the completed fastener.
In some cases, the backside of the flange is ribbed. The majority are equipped with thin flanges that surround the hole. In addition, some rivet nuts are aluminum. They’re also available in a wide range of thread sizes and pitches. Assembly access is only from one side (they install “blind”) and they’re immune to high temperature. They work well on thin wall components (for example, automotive sheet metal or even frame rails). These ingenious components are strong enough to create load bearing threads. I don’t have a lot of experience with these fasteners, because there is a better option: Enter the Rivet Nut (AKA “RivNut” or “NutSert”) Finally, there are some deforming metal and plastic products that work much like a household wall anchor. They’re simply good at fitting overlapping panels. The trouble with U-nuts is they’re not really blind nuts. U-nuts are another possibility, and they’re used with regularity in the automotive industry. The problem here is, the opening must be rather healthy in order to fit the apparatus. There are also some metal expansion nuts that pop into a hole. Yes, they work most of the time, but don’t expect them to hold heavy items. They expand behind the hole as you tighten the fastener and more or less seal the hole. Sure, you can use “well nuts” which are really expanding rubber nuts. Sometimes you’ll find a spot on your project where you need a nut to secure a fastener, but there’s no way to reach the back side of it for access.
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